The harbour of Labuhanbajo marks the extreme northern end of the main street, on which almost all of the town losmen and restaurants are situated. The airport is about 2km out and you'll probably have to charter a bemo; the Merpati office is a fifteen-minute uphill hike east of town. Bank BNI at the south end of town is unsure about travellers' cheques, will only take prime-condition bills and gives lousy rates for anything but dollars. The post office (Mon-Thurs 7.30am-3pm, Fri 7.30-11am, Sat 7.30am-1pm) is next to the bank, but the PHPA and Telkom offices are a hike out of town: walk south from the harbour, passing most of the hotels, and take the second left up the hill past the market. For most phone calls, the wartels in town are just as good a bet.

Buses heading east to Ruteng (4-5hr; Rp7500) start from 6.30am, and tickets can be bought from all the hotels, or you can just hail them from the street; some buses continue to Bajawa (11hr; Rp10,000). Buses meet the ferry for the fourteen-hour trip to Ende (Rp30,000). The ferry west to Sumbawa leaves at 8am every day except Tuesday; tickets (Rp12,500) are sold right up to departure.

In town, Gardena Bungalows (tel 0385/41258; under $5), on a small hill set back off the main road, a three-minute walk south from the port, is currently the most popular backpackers' accommodation , with bungalows overlooking the bay, and breakfast included. A little further up, the Bajo Homestay (tel 0385/41008; under $5) is slightly smarter, though the service leaves something to be desired. Turn left immediately before the market on Jalan Sukarno Hatta and climb for 250m to Chez Felix (tel 0385/41032; under $5), which has tranquil and clean singles, doubles and triples, most en suite. The best restaurant in western Flores is Borobudor Rumah Makan, next to Gardena Bungalows, which serves great, if slightly pricey, seafood, including lobster, as well as steaks and good ice cream. The restaurant at the Gardena Bungalows is a good second choice, while next door to the Borobudur, Dewata Rumah Makan is more basic and serves inexpensive seafood.

All beach accommodation places offer regular free boats or bemos to and from the harbour; boatmen meet incoming ferries and the first transport out in the morning is guaranteed to connect with the ferries west or the second bus to Ruteng. Most beach places have only irregular electricity and running water and none have phones. Currently the best of the beach retreats, Kanawa Hotel ($10-15) is 45 minutes away by boat and has a great beach and pristine reefs. The hotel also has an agent in Labuhanbajo near the Bajo Homestay next to the Waecicu agent. Waecicu Beach (under $5), a twenty-minute boat ride from town, in a beautiful location on the mainland, has attractive cottages ranging from very basic to those with mandi and mosquito nets. The price includes three very square meals a day.