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Practicalities

The train station is about 500m northwest of the Botanical Gardens and close to the budget accommodation; trains from Jakarta take 90 minutes. Buses from Jakarta's Rambutan terminal arrive at the bus terminal about 500m southeast of the gardens. There are also frequent buses to and from Bandung. The main bemo stop is behind the bus terminal, but the best place to pick up bemos is on the main road that borders the southern edge of the gardens. There is a small tourist information centre (Mon-Fri 9am-4pm) at the southern entrance to the gardens.

Pensione Firman, Jl Palendang 48 (tel 0251/323246; under $5) has long been the budget travellers' favourite accommodation and has neat and basic rooms, as well as doing various tours around West Java. With excessively friendly staff, river views and excellent breakfasts, Abu Pensione, Jl Mayur Oking 15 (tel 0251/322893; under $5), is probably the best budget losmen in Bogor; the pricier rooms here have hot water and air-con. Wisma Karunia, Jl Serupur 35-37 (tel 0251/323411; under $5) is friendly and quiet, with a range of rooms and breakfast included; the owners run a door-to-door bus service to Bandung. Hotel Mirah, Jl Pangrango 9a (tel 0251/328044; $5-10) has an inviting pool (open to non-guests for Rp10,000) and air-con en-suite rooms, and Wisma Bogor Permai, Jl Sawajajar/Jend Sudirman 23a (tel 0251/321115; $10-15), is a delightful establishment with hot water and large beds, plus a good Indonesian breakfast.

One of the best places to try genuine Sundanese food is in the garden at Restoran Si Kabayan, Jl Bina Marga I 2, where ikan mas is a speciality. Jongko Ibu, Jl Juanda 36, also does good, cheap Sundanese food, including steamed carp in banana leaf. Bogor Permai, on the corner of Jalan Jend Sudirman and Jalan Sawojajar, is a small food complex housing a fine delicatessen, the best bakery in Bogor and a stand selling tasty pizza slices (Rp2000). The Bogor Permai restaurant in the back of the building serves quality seafood and steaks from Rp25,000. Near the bus station on Jalan Raya Pajararan, Cahaya Bari, Simpang Rayu and Trio Permai are three of the flashiest, cleanest Padang restaurants you will ever see. Along Jalan Pengadillan, near the Telkom and train station, are bunches of night stalls , which set up after 6pm.

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