Attractively situated between Gunung Argopuro to the southwest and Gunung Beser to the north, BONDOWOSO , is a small, relaxed town, useful for access to the Ijen Plateau. There's good access by road or rail; the train station is 2km southeast of the alun-alun. The bus station is 500m beyond the train station. Coming from Banyuwangi, you'll need to change at Situbondo or Jember. Becak wait at the bus terminal and station to ferry arrivals around town.

The centre of town is the alun-alun , less manicured than many, but still attractive, and surrounded by the main administration buildings. The main shopping street, Jalan Raya P Sudirman, runs from the northeast corner of the square.

The hotel most used to travellers is Hotel Anugerah, Jl Mayjen Sutoyo 12 (tel 0332/21870; $5-10), with lots of options including top-end rooms with air-con - all have attached mandi and outside sitting areas. The owner can help with chartering transport (Rp120,000 with driver to Ijen). The most atmospheric place to eat is the extensive night market along Jalan Martadinata, which heads east off the southeast corner of the alun-alun.

The post office is at Jl Jaksa Agung Suprapto 9 (Mon-Thurs 7.30am-noon & 1-4pm, Fri 7.30-11.30am, Sat 7.30am-1pm, Sun & hols 8-11am). There's a 24hr Telkom office at Jl Mayjen Panjaitan 6; the road is left off Jalan A Yani about 500m south of the alun-alun. You can only exchange cash, not travellers' cheques, at BNI, Jl A Yani 26.