CARITA boasts one of the most sheltered stretches of sea in Java and is the best spot to arrange tours to Krakatau (day-trips $30-50); those by Black Rhino (tel 0253/81072), across from the marina, are recommended, but don't fall for the unqualified guides who approach you on spec. Carita also makes quite an easy escape from the capital; a bus from Kalideres bus station in Jakarta, usually changing to a colt at Labuan, will take just over three hours. If you do have to change at Labuan terminal, don't get conned into taking transport round to the stop for colts to Carita, just walk two minutes towards the seafront and round to the right. Try to avoid coming to Carita at a weekend though, when the bay reverberates with the constant roar of jet skis and accommodation prices shoot up.

All accommodation is on or close to the main seaside road, known as Jalan Carita Raya or Jalan Pantai Carita. There are no building numbers, so all are listed here in the order they appear along this road heading north from Labuan town. Pondok Bakkara (tel 0253/81260; under $5) is one of the cheapest places here, though the en-suite rooms are not especially clean and often full. Friendly staff, clean rooms and interesting decor make Sunset View (tel 0253/81075; under $5) one of the best-value places on the west coast. Carita Krakatau (tel 0253/83027; under $5), behind the restaurant of the same name, is also recommended and offers spotless rooms with mandi, fan and breakfast. Lucia Cottages (tel 0253/81262; $5-10) has bungalows and rooms around a pool and some of the comfiest beds in Carita.

The public parts of the beach are lined with food carts selling murtabak, sate and soto. Other good options include the plush and fairly pricey Caf? de Paris, at the 14km Anyer marker, which does European and Chinese dishes and seafood; Carita Krakatau, 30m towards Anyer from the marina, which cooks a good fish steak for Rp15,000; and Diminati, opposite the entrance to the marina, which boasts the cheapest cold beer in town (Rp7500), and does an excellent kakap fish steak meal for Rp15,000.