Located just 3km across the Madura Strait, Pulau Madura is a restful and totally rural place, where village life continues in timeless fashion. Although a quiet backwater for much of the year, the island bursts into activity during the exciting kerapan sapi (ox races) , held every August and September. The races originated as a way of toughening up the oxen and, these days, individual and village pride can be boosted considerably by having a prizewinning pair of 600kg beasts (a good racing ox can fetch Rp20 million). The oxen are yoked together and adorned with highly decorated bridles, and the rider half-stands and half-sits very precariously on a long pole that is dragged behind; together they charge over a course just over 100m long, reaching speeds up to 50km per hour. The finals take place in September or October in Pamekasan, accompanied by ceremonies, parades, dancing and gamelan orchestras. Check in tourist offices in Surabaya for exact dates.

Stretching 160km from west to east and around 35km from north to south, Madura is mostly flat, although there is a low range of hills across the centre. The main towns are Bangkalan in the west, Pamekasan and Sampang in the centre and Sumenep in the east. The main road on the island links the major settlements along the south coast, and there is a quieter road along the north coast. Ferries operate from Tanjung Perak in Surabaya across the Madura Strait to KAMAL in the west of Madura around the clock (every 30min; 30min; Rp500). From Kamal there are minibuses to Sumenep (3hr 30min-4hr), Sampang (1hr 30min-2hr) and Pamekasan (2hr 30min); local transport covers the villages in between. There's also a daily ferry (4hr) from Tanjung Jangkhar in the far east of Java, 60km north of Banyuwangi, to KALIANGET in the east of Madura. Local minibuses operate from Kalianget to Sumenep, or you can stay at Baitul Kamal (under $5).