Staked out over Kalimantan's richest petroleum deposits, BALIKPAPAN 's fortunes wax and wane with international fuel prices: business has boomed since the Gulf War in 1991, and Balikpapan's 350,000 residents currently enjoy a tidy city, with lots of expat oil workers from the US and Australia. There's nothing much to see in this Western-style town, which is best used as a break after a long sojourn in the interior. The city's commercial district surrounds three-kilometre-long Jalan Yani, with the nearest thing to a downtown hub at its southern intersection with Jalan Sudirman.