Three hundred kilometres north of Samarinda, the trading port of BERAU , alias Tanjung Redeb, is the place to catch marine traffic heading on up the coast to Tarakan. Berau's central core is a small grid of streets running back from riverbank Jalan Yani. Pelni 's Awu runs fortnightly from the port at Jalan Yani's western end to Tarakan, as part of a huge Sulawesi-Flores-Timor-Sumba loop ; the Pelni office is here too. Other boats to Tarakan and Samarinda leave several times a week from the Jalan Yani waterfront, where owners post departure times on trees; fast craft to Tarakan charge Rp40,000 and take five hours, slower tubs cost Rp25,000 and take ten. If they're running, buses to Bontang leave early from the Jalan Guna market, 1km across town; buy tickets at the stop (Rp40,000). The airport is a ten-minute bemo or ojek ride to the south. The Sederhana and Citra Indah hotels can organize all flights. Running off Jalan Yani's western end, Jalan Antasari is where you'll find Berau's accommodation : right behind the docks, Losmen Sederhana (tel 0554/21353; $10-15) is fine, the Kartika is a dive, but cheap ($5-10), and Hotel Citra Indah (tel 0554/21171; $20-25) has the best rooms. The Citra Indah has a restaurant and there are plenty of evening warung on Jalan Yani.