BONTANG is a sprawling township built around Pertamina's huge liquid gas refinery, two twisting hours by road from Samarinda. Bontang's bus station is 3km south of the centre. Buses run to and from Samarinda (2hr; Rp3700) until mid-afternoon, and during drier months there are daily kijang from the bus station north to Berau (12-24hr; Rp40,000). If you need to stay, there's the clean Losmen Rahayu ($5-10) in rural suburbs about a ten-minute walk down Jalan Mulawarman, or catch a bemo to Hotel Kartika, Jalan Yani 37 (tel 0548/21012; $10-15).