Most travellers only pass through PALANGKARAYA , the capital of Dayak-controlled Kalimantan Tengah, or Kalteng, in transit between Pangkalanbun and Banjarmasin. The most interesting part of town surrounds the dock area around Jalan Dharmosugondo, with its day- and night markets a good place to pick up locally made bamboo and rattan rain hats (Rp2000) and floormats (Rp3000).

Most of Palangkaraya's services are up in the northeastern end of town off Jalan Yani. Tjilik Riwut airport is 1km further east again, Rp5000 by taxi. Arriving by river from Banjarmasin, speedboats (Rp25,000) terminate at Rambang Pier at the top of Jalan Dharmosugondo. Buses from Banjarmasin (Rp25,000) pull in 2km south across town on Jalan Soedarso, though they generally deliver to hotels first. Buses to Pangkalanbun (Rp30,000) are best booked in advance at the offices near Rambang Pier on Jalan Dharmosugondo. City bemos run fixed routes for a flat rate of Rp350.

Change money at the BNI on Jalan Dharmosugondo (Mon-Thurs 9am-2pm, Fri 9-11am), which has an ATM for Cirrus/Maestro cards. West along Jalan Yani, the wartel does international phone calls, while Adi Ankassa Travel (tel 0514/21480) makes flight bookings. Most of Palangkaraya's budget accommodation is set around Rambang Pier, but, like the pleasant-looking Mina (under $5), is generally difficult for foreigners to get into. Dian Wisata, Jl Yani 68 (tel 0536/21241; under $5), offers economy and en-suite doubles; Yanti, Jl Yani 82 (tel 0536/21634; $15-20), is also fair value and spotless. Dandang Tingang, Jl Yos Soedarso 13 (tel 0536/21805; $5-10), is a little distant from transit points - bemo "C" from Jalan Yani will get you there - but pleasant and spacious. Thick fish steaks and fillets are cooked to your order at Sampurna, on Jalan Jawa, Senggol on Jalan Madura, or Almuminum on Jalan Dharmosugondo.