Some 120km north of Balikpapan, the tropical port town of SAMARINDA is 50km upstream from the sea, where the Sungai Mahakam is 1km wide and deep enough to be navigable by ocean-going ships. It has become increasingly prosperous since large-scale logging of Kalimantan Timur's interior began in the 1970s, its western riverfront abuzz with mills. There's not much to see here, but as the source of Sungai Mahakam ferries it's a good place to stock up for trips into Kalimantan's wilds.

Hemmed in by hills, the bulk of Samarinda occupies the north bank of the Mahakam. Most services are near the river in the vicinity of Pasar Pagi, along Jalan Khalid and Jalan Panglima Batur. For an insight into what Samarinda once looked like, head north to Pasar Sigiri and Jalan Pernia Gaan, where the canal behind the market remains crowded with rickety wooden housing and boats pulled up on the muddy banks. Pasar Pagi is the standard Indonesian maze of overflowing stalls and tight spaces; shops nearby are strangely divided between gold stores and chandlers. Just up the road on Jalan Khalid stands Mesra Plaza shopping centre, and east between Jalan Gajah Mada and Jalan Panglima Batur, Citra Niaga is a purpose-built bazaar for cheap clothing and souvenir stalls.