Airline offices Bouraq, Jl Mulawarman 24 (tel 0541/41105); DAS, Jl Gatot Subroto 92 (tel 0541/35250); MAF, Jl Rahuia Rahaya, northwest of the airport off Jl Let Jend Parman (tel 0541/43628); Merpati, Jl Sudirman 23.

Banks and exchange The BCA on Jl Sudirman has fair rates, with counter no. 2 for foreign exchange. ATMs are on the corner of Jl Sulawesi and Jl Panglima Batur.

Guides You'll need to find a guide in Samarinda if you're heading further upstream than Long Bagun on the Mahakam. The best are accredited by the Dinas Pariwisata so ask there or try at Hotel Pirus, where Andi Subagio is recommended, as is Sarkani Gambi (ask at the Mesra). Expect to pay Rp35,000 a day plus food and lodgings, or Rp50,000 a day all-inclusive.

Pharmacies Rumah Sakit Bhakti Nugraha on Jl Basuki Rachmat (tel 0541/41363).

Police Jl Bhayangkara, 200m south of the cinema (tel 0541/41340 or 41516).

Post office Corner of Jl Gajah Mada and Jl Awang Long.

Telephone services 24hr wartel on Jl Awang Long, across from the Istana Iguana restaurant, with a smaller office in the Citra Niaga plaza (8pm-midnight).

Travel agents Borneo Kersik Lluwai Tour & Travel, Jl Hasan 3 (tel 0541/41486) can arrange most airline (including Royal Brunei, but not MAF) and Pelni tickets and private Mahakam cruises. Also good are Angkassa Travel, Jl Abul Hasan (tel 0541/42098), though they don't deal with MAF or DAS.