Tanjung Puting national park covers 4000 square kilometres south of Sungai Sekonyer, though public access, by boat only, is confined to the ranger posts at Tanjung Harapan (2hr from Kumai) and Pondok Tanggui (3hr), and the research stations at Natai Lengkuas (4-5hr) and Camp Leakey (4-5hr). On arrival at each stopover, you must report with your permit to park staff. Heed their warnings, especially about getting too close to adult male orang-utans, or females with children - and don't carry food, as orang-utans will rip bags apart to find it. Each area has fairly easy paths to explore, the longest of which are at Camp Leakey.

You need at least two full days in the park. If you don't sleep aboard your klotok, there are three places to stay , all in the vicinity of Tanjung Harapan. The ranger post here has basic cabins (under $5), which must be booked at Kumai. Ecolodge (fax 0532/22991; $5-10), across the river, has comfortable rooms and, five minutes upstream, there's Rimba Lodge "safari camp" (book at Blue Kecubung in Pangkalanbun; $60-80). Both lodges have good restaurants - the only places to eat in the park - and can arrange guides , canoes and klotoks for rental. Staff at the two ranger posts and Camp Leakey also offer their guiding services at around Rp50,000 a day.