Komodo now receives in excess of 40,000 visitors a year, the majority of them offloading at the tiny PHPA camp at LOH LIANG in the east of the island, where at least one fully grown dragon is a regular visitor. In the high season, when cruise ships dump tourists here by the hundred, it can seem a bit like an adventure theme park. During the rainy season, however, you can easily find yourself alone: just you and an island full of three-metre flesh-eating predators. The ora are in plentiful supply, and the vast majority of tourists who visit see at least one dragon and probably a few juveniles as well. However, there are no guarantees.

The PHPA charges Rp20,000 for both entry into the park and a guide, and Rp25,000 a night for accommodation in stilted wooden cabins, surrounded by deer, wild pigs, snakes and dragons. If the cabins are full you'll have to sleep on the floor of the restaurant. The camp also rents out well-used snorkelling equipment and is close to setting up a dive facility.