Five hours east of Poso along a road crossed by a handful of flood-prone rivers, AMPANA is a dusty little hole whose bus station, market and Pertamina fuel storage tanks are the focus of a tumbledown port area from where most transport to the Togian islands departs. There's a private homestay (under $5) around the side of the bus station, or walk about 300m west past the port, market, and over a small bridge to Jalan Kartini, where you'll find reasonable doubles at Losmen Irama (under $5) and Hotel Oasis (tel 0464/21058; Rp12,500 dorm; $5-10). On the corner of Jalan Kartini, Rumah Makan Mekar (6am-11pm) serves good food. Ask at the port about ferry schedules to the Togian islands - there's transport to Wakai (5hr) most days from here, though some boats to Bomba (5hr) leave from about 3km east of town, best reached by dokar or ojek.