About 190km southeast from Makassar, tiny Bira is an unassuming group of wooden homes 4km north of BIRA Beach , also known as Paloppalakaya Bay, where the blindingly white sand is fringed by heaps of tourist accommodation. Shallow water off the beach is safe for swimming, ending in a coral wall dropping into the depths about 150m from shore. Snorkellers can see turtles and manta rays here, with exciting diving deeper down featuring strong currents, cold water and big sharks. All accommodation rents out snorkels and fins, and both Bira Beach and Anda Bungalows have scuba gear and packages for qualified divers starting at US$35. The pick of the cheaper places to stay includes Riswan Guest House (under $5), a nice traditional Bugis house on a breezy hilltop with all meals included, and the cabins run by Riswan Bungalows (under $5) and Anda Bungalows (tel 0413/82125; $5-10). More upmarket are Bira Beach Hotel (tel 0413/81515; $10-15), chic cabins with sea views, with a travel agent and the only international public telephone in the area; and Bira View Inn (tel 0413/82043; $10-15), bungalows with ocean views. From Makassar's Terminal Mallengkeri, kijangs (Rp10,000) to Bulukumba (5hr; Rp10,000) leave early in the morning, from where you can catch a bemo to Bira (Rp3500). There are no banks capable of exchanging foreign currency in the region.