GORONTALO is a pleasant, sleepy Muslim city with useful ferry links to Pagaimana and Ampana and buses to Manado. It's centred on the Mesjid Baitur Rahi which stands at a wide crossroads. Jalan Basuki Rahmat runs north of here, though the main road out of town in this direction is parallel Jalan Sam Ratulangi, two blocks further west; Jalan Sultan Botutihe heads east, past a hospital, south are businesses along Jalan Ahmed Yani, while Jalan Hasanuddin points west through Gorontalo's commercial district and over the river.

Weekly ferries to and from Poso, Bomba, Wakai and Ampana, and services every other day to and from Pagaimana dock 7km southeast at Gorontalo's port. The nearest Pelni port is at Kwandang, two hours' north, which runs a monthly service to Palu, Makassar (two days), Kalimantan and Java on KM Umsini . The ticket office is at Jl 23 Januari 21, near the Telkom office.

All long-distance buses , including those to and from Manado and Makassar, use Terminal Andalas , 3km north of the centre. Kijangs, microlets and ojeks service all transport terminals; the city's microlet terminal is 1km north at Pasar Sentral on Jalan Sam Ratulangi.

Most places to stay are south of the mosque. A favourite is Hotel Melati at Jl Gajah Mada 33 (tel 0435/822934; under $10); rooms in the older colonial wing are more charming and cheaper. There are big rooms and aged fittings at Penginapan Teluk Kau, Jl Sungai Parman 42 (tel 0435/822093; under $5), though they occasionally refuse foreigners; and mid-range comforts at friendly Hotel Saronde, Jl Walanda Maramis 17 (tel 0435/821735; under $10). All banks are on Jalan Ahmed Yani. The post office is on the corner of Jalan Ahmed Yani and Jalan 23 Januari, while the Telkom office is just west of here at Jl 23 Januari 35. For something to eat , night stalls set up south off Jalan Hasanuddin on Jalan Pertiwi, and there's fine sate at the tiny Warung Kita, across from the mosque on Jalan Suprator. For something better, head north off Jalan Sultan Botutihe to the Boulevard on Jalan Merdeka, with cold beer, juicy grilled fish and karaoke.