Some 250km north of Makassar, a steep wall of mountains marks the limits of Bugis territory and the entrance into the highlands of Tanah Toraja , a gorgeous spread of hills and valleys where fat buffalo wallow beside lush green paddy-fields and where the people enjoy one of Indonesia's most confident and vivid cultures. Anthropologists place Torajan origins as part of the Bronze Age exodus from Vietnam; Torajans say that their ancestors descended from heaven by way of a stone staircase, which was later angrily smashed by the creator Puang Matua after his laws were broken. These laws became the root of aluk todolo, the way of the ancestors, which, at its most basic, divides the world into opposites associated with directions: north for gods, south for humanity, east for life, and west for death. Only a fraction of Torajans now follow the old religion, the strict practice of which was prohibited after head-hunting and raunchy life-rites proved unacceptable to colonial and nationalist administrations. But trappings of the old religion are still an integral part of Torajan life: everywhere you'll see extraordinary tongkonan and alang , traditional houses and rice-barns, while the Torajan social calendar remains ringed with exuberant ceremonies involving pig and buffalo sacrifices. Torajans are masters at promoting their culture, positively encouraging outsiders to experience their way of life on its own terms. With easy access, Tanah Toraja is planted firmly on the agenda of every visitor to Sulawesi. Tour groups tend to concentrate on key sites, though it's not hard to find more secluded corners.

Tanah Toraja's main towns are the district capital of Makale and larger Rantepao , 18km further north along the Sungai Sadan valley. Rantepao's range of services makes it the favoured base for tourists, the bulk of whom descend for the major festival season between July and September, though the only really quiet time is from February to perhaps May. Expect hot days and cool nights; there is a "dry" season between April and October, but this is relative only to the amount of rain at other times, so bring non-slip walking boots and rainwear.

Tanah Toraja is known as Tator in the local idiom, and you should look for this on transport timetables. Daily Merpati flights from Makassar to Makale are very unreliable, and the surest way to Tanah Toraja is by bus , with Makale and Rantepao connected to points all over Sulawesi. From Makassar buses leave day and night from Terminal Panaikang.