The night market , at the southern end of Jalan Hassanudin, operates from dusk until about 11pm and offers a huge range of food, including Chinese and seafood.

Garuda , Jl Kartini 31. Just north of Tanjung Karang Plaza, this is part of a popular chain, serving all the Indonesian staples at moderate prices in relaxed surroundings.

Gembira , Jl Pangkhal Pinang 20. Popular place serving a huge range of inexpensive local dishes including pempek, soups, chicken dishes and ice confections.

Marcopolo Restaurant at the Marcopolo Hotel. The view from the terrace makes this a great place for a meal or a drink. Chinese and Indonesian food from Rp10,000, steak Rp35,000, plus tax.

Moro Seneng , Jl Diponegoro 38. Good-value Indonesian and Chinese food at Rp7500-12,000, up to shrimp, gurame and squid at Rp22,500.

Pemplek 56 , Jl Salim Batubara 56. Just one of a huge range of pempek places along this road, all serving the Palembang speciality of grilled or fried sago and fish balls.