Coming from the south, the first major town on the highland road is KUTACANE , a typical Acehnese one-street town, that's mainly used as a place to change buses. There are bus services to and from Berastagi, Blangkejeren, Ketambe and Takengon. If you get stuck, you can stay at Wisma Marron ($5-10) at Jl Jend A Yani II 15-17, or the nearby travellers' favourite Rindu Alam, Jl Jend A Yani 7 (tel 0629/21289; $5-10), which is a bit grimy.