While here, you should try a typical Padang restaurant , distinguishable by their window display of dishes. There's no menu: up to a dozen small plates are placed in front of you and you pay for whatever you eat. Generally, the redder the sauce, the more explosive it is to the taste buds: the yellow, creamy dishes are often less aggressive. At the southern end of Jalan Pondok, due south of the market area towards the river, you'll find a small night market of sate stalls; another one sets up on Jalan Imam Bonjol, south of the Moh Yamin junction.

Kartini , Jl Pasar Baru 24. The most popular of the many Padang-style restaurants along this street. They are unfazed by tourists and the food is fresh and well cooked.

Matahari foodcourt , 2nd floor, Matahari shopping centre. Air-con, with a wide range of Indonesian options such as soup, gado-gado, sate, murtabak, drinks and juices.

Pagi Sore , Jl Pondok 143. A popular and good-value Padang restaurant with plenty of choice, one of the nicest of the many restaurants on this road.

Ri & Ri , Jl Pondok. Pleasant and relaxed, this is both a Padang place (10am-2pm) and a slightly more upmarket restaurant in the evening, offering frog, chicken, squid and goat dishes.

Tulip Bakery , Jl Pondok 139. Stretching back from the road, with high ceilings, this is a cool place to take a rest. Basic fried rice and noodles are on offer as well as bakery items.