South of the large but uninteresting town of Dompu , on a white-sand coast with swaying palm trees, is the wave rider's Mecca of HU'U . The waves break over razor-sharp finger coral, so bring a helmet and first-aid kit. Generally, surfing is best between May and August, with the absolute prime in June and July. It's practically impossible to get a bed during these months so bringing a tent is a good idea.

To get to Hu'u village, take a bus to Dompu from Sumbawa Besar or Bima, from where it's a one-hour trip south (Rp3000). One bus a day goes there directly from Bima, leaving at around 7.30am. The accommodation lies in a cluster on the seafront about 3km from Hu'u village, the longest established being Mona Lisa Bungalows, on the beach (under $5). Next door, Hotel Amangati (under $5) has clean en-suite bungalows. The Prima Donna Lakey Cottages (tel 0373/21168; $5-10) takes bookings in advance during high season. All of these losmen are convenient for the famous Lakey Peak and Lakey Pipe breaks. Just over 1km down the beach back towards Hu'u village and by the break of the same name is Periscopes (under $5), a friendly surf camp.