The Baliem Valley is changing fast, and although Wamena and the nearby villages are still vastly different from anywhere else in Indonesia, you won't experience the really extraordinary aspects of Dani life and culture unless you get off the beaten track. Owing to the paucity of roads and the expense and infrequency of flights, this means a lot of walking and significant planning . Since the valley opened up to tourists, the most popular way of getting around has been to walk out to a destination with an airfield and then catch a mission flight back. But this method is becoming less and less viable and the pioneer and missionary airlines are for the most part pretty sick of tourists using their mercy flights as holiday transport. However, if you're desperate, the missionary airlines, and Pioneers Airfas, Trigana and Manunngal, all have offices in or around Wamena's terminal.

Planning a trek
Apart from a few treks in the Baliem Gorge and along other well-forged trails that can be done alone, a guide and porter are necessary. Main trails are crisscrossed by side tracks that could take you off into the middle of...
read more >>